Maa Gange  

….More than a river,she’s holy,she’s Ganga maa

                  18^th to 26^th July 2015                     

Its nearly a week since we returned from the trek / tour of Himalayas. I have been desperately trying to unclog my mind of the million unforgettable memories . Despite trying my best to Translate them into words, I am not able to comprehend  how or where to begin. As such I have decided to separate the experiences, not in any particular order. Here is one such random account:

Ganga Aarti:

Bathing in the Holy Ganga has always been high on the list of many desires I nurture. The trek to the valley of Flowers provided the perfect opportunity in satisfying the same.

Having arrived early at Haridwar en route to Govindghat, we had almost half a day at our disposal. After Checking in , we immediately embarked on a reconnaissance , all the while collecting information.  we immediately  noticed  that anyone we talked to - a policeman,street vendor, Auto Driver, Shop Keeper, referred to Ganga as “Maa Gange”. The reverence is complete and touching. We gather that  Ganga Arati would begin at Dusk near the ‘ Brahma Kund’ in the Ghat Called Har-Ki-Pouri, believed to be the holiest of places. “Har-Ki-Pouri” means “God’s Foot prints”. we decide to have a dip at this Holy Place. The water is Icy cold, but enthusiasm enables us to brave it. Once in the water ,none in the group wants to get out. We wallow for considerable  time and get out in time to witness the Ganga Arati.

About a dozen Purohits assemble on the Brahma Kund Side of the Ghat. We have chosen the opposite bank,as it is ideal for Photographing the event. Thousands have  gathered on either side ,waiting with bated breath. In due course the ritual begins with ringing of bells and chanting of Vedic Verses. Aartis are performed  in various styles ,with different types of Arati plates and stands. Turmeric,Kumkum and flowers are offered to the fast flowing waters. A Huge flower bouquet placed in a bowl stitched from leaves with oil wick lamps in the middle is set adrift. This is a signal that the crowd has waited for. Soon hundreds of these lamps are afloat, providing a spectacular sight in the fading light of dusk.

Thereafter the lead purohit begins a slow drawling ,sing-song chant of “Har…har….Gange,…. Jaiiiiiii  maaaaa…   Gange”. The initial drawl slowly picks up pulse and the crowd  joins in with rhythmic  hand Clapping . The tempo further rises up and reaches a crescendo with the clang  of cymbals and  repeated  long blasts of the Conch. The atmosphere is truly  electric.  Unconsciously we too are chanting. One of our members even performed an appropriate jig.Our First Tryst with the Holy Ganga is eventful.

On the return journey from valley of Flowers,we have a spare day at Haridwar. We decide to utilize the same visiting the Mansi devi and Chandi devi temples in the Morning and later travel the short distance to Rishikesh to witness Ganga Aarti there.

Both Mansi Devi and Chandi Devi Temples are located on top of hills on  the two opposite banks of  River Ganga. Cable cars are available to ferry piligrims. The landscape of Haridwar with Ganga flowing through is a gorgeous view from the top. Returning to our Hotel after darshan,we prepare to leave for Rishikesh. Though Regular bus services are  available, we decide to hire a ‘Phut-Phuti”- a six seater Diesel auto just for the heck of it.

Rishikesh is known to be the more favoured destination among foreigners who fancy  divine experience , the number of comfortable Hotels and upmarket eataries  providing ample  evidence.

 Crossing the Ram Jhula we reach the northern Ghats. Once again the lure of the furiously flowing Gange is irrestible. The water is much colder and near freezing. Gingerly, the entire team enters the water. Two Ganga Snanams within a span of 10 days – astonishing, unbelievable. Back on  the southern bank we are greeted  by a welcome sight- Madras café ! Trooping in we gorge on Idlis ,Dosas and relishing cups of filter coffee.

The authentic Ganga Aarti at Rishikesh takes place at the Ghats near Laxman Jhoola. But, we are told that a number of Aartis are performed on the ghats all along the river.So,we occupy our places on the Ghat across the Road . The one we witness here is a complete contrast . While Haridwar  was totally religious , this one  at Rishikesh is filmy in style, with handsome boys dressed in shiny yellow attire,carefully applied tilaks performing to  loud,foot tapping devotional songs blaring  from oversized speaker units.

At the end there is an announcement that the performing group aims at promoting Bhakthi,and involves in the clean Ganga initiative and seeks everyone’s support. We also notice a strategically placed collection box. The younger members of the audience definitely loved the show.

A tour of Haridwar & Rishikesh, Two baths in the Holy Ganga and experience of distinctly different versions of Ganga Aartis- Could one ask for more?

Legend: Aarti means remover of darkness(ignorance). Aarti is performed at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat which was built in 1st century BC by King Vikramaditya. Bhratuhari , brother of King Vikramaditya performed penance here  and Lord Vishnu appeared before him and blessed him. Thereafter the  place was named Har Ki Pauri meaning Foot Prints of God.As per another legend this is also the  place where drops of Amrut fell as Garuda carried the same after the epic samundra manthan. Har-Ki- Pouri is also believed to be the place where Holy Ganga finally descends from the mountains and enters the plains.

गांगं वारि मनोहारि मुरारिचरणच्युतम्।

त्रिपुरारिशिरश्चारि पापहारि पुनातु माम्॥