Real,Unreal,Surreal
………… mind a jaunt ?
A fortnight ago I purchased a packet of Idli
batter from the Corner shop at Ashoka circle ( Ballal Circle) and turned around to
return home,.The First Bus from Srirampuram/ Jayanagar travelling to CBS , took
a wide turn at the circle & screeched to a halt right in front of me. The door
less back entrance was only inches away. Impulsively, I climbed
onto the foot board. Only a few
passengers were seated inside……..
Quite understandable, as it
was 6.15
in the morning. The conductor enquired “Ellige” / (where to?). I
bought a ticket to CBS and the bus moved along the deserted streets through
Hardwicke Circle , Ramaswamy Circle, Sita Vilas Choultry, Lakshmi Talkies, Gun
house, Hardinge Circle ,,K.R Circle and entered central Bus Stand. After alighting
I enquired for Buses towards Ballal Circle . Found one that going to southern Railway Workshop. I asked
for a ticket to Ballal circle . Without raising his head from his satchel, the
conductor replied ‘Vasan Eye Care ! Retracing the same route backwards, the bus halted right in front of our
Gates.
At home I experienced a strange sense of excitement !.A city Bus ride after God knows
how many years !
The joy ride brought back memories of an earlier
escapade to which I never attached any serious importance till now. But the latest daftness and the
recently acquired fetish to write down anything and everything has pushed me
towards sharing an experience of a “once in a lifetime ” bus journey.
It happened in 2012.Upon
request, I jumped at the chance to visit Kodaikanal & fulfil certain responsibilities
entrusted by a relative.
As there were no
direct buses from Mysore to Kodaikanal, I boarded a TNTC bus to Palani at 8.00 pm.I’m mentioning nothing for the
comfort: shutter less open Windows, hard thin seat cushioning, minimum leg space………. still if one wants a true local experience,
the “line” buses of Tamil
Nadu are the ones that offer plenty of it. More about it later.
The Bus reached Palani right on time at 4.45 am.the next morning. Night driving has its
own advantages; Deserted town roads, no town congestion, comparatively low
highway traffic.
Treating myself to hot
tea at a much recommended stall, I found
it astonishing that steaming Idlis
& Dosas were
being offered at that unearthly hour !
I boarded a bus to Kodaikanal. The seats filled up quickly and the bus was on its way. After an hour it halted at a way side eatery . A narrow waterfall was cascading from the mountain side . I used the opportunity to brush my teeth .The ice cold water was refreshing. After half a dozen whistle stops, the bus reached Kodai Bus station.
After completing the assignment
It was time to return home after five days. Alighting at Palani
at 8.00 am , I found huge crowds
thronging the Bus stand. Deepavali Festival was three days away . Worse, I gathered that
there was no direct (“through”) bus to Mysore . A change in travel plan
became inevitable. The universal advice
was to “Take a Cut Bus”
. And that was the beginning of an insane, rip-roaring rollercoaster ride through
a torrent of events spread over the next eleven
hours.
So cut bus it was ! .I
somehow managed to jostle myself through, & entered the 48 seater bus to Dharapuram which was already bursting at the seams with 70 odd ‘Passengers’ carrying along Baskets of Flowers. Bags of
New clothing, sweets, savories, groceries,babies, kids, agricultural implements…….you
name it !
Outside, rows of palm trees two-wheeler ,Bicycle &
Pedestrian traffic. sped past, Tamil
movie songs blared inside.
Approaching Dharapuram, I saw hundreds of make
shift shops that had been erected for
the festive season. Van loads of
colorful flowers, garlands, banana stems, leaves & fruit, Dhotis, sarees,
sweet meat, savories, bangles. Trinkets fire crackers, “ever
silver” Utensils &
goods of all types were being
unloaded. Locals thronged the market and were purchasing essential items for the festival. Days
before the ensuing festival, the atmosphere
was as vibrant and action packed as the festival day itself.
There was sparkle in the eyes and a spring in everyone’s
steps. After all, festivals are the only occasion when these self-effacing people can
afford a slight relaxation of their austerity. & indulge in Wearing new clothes, eating good food, visiting
temples, splurging money on some modest luxuries and generally have a good time
with family and friends.
Even as the bus was
entering the Town bus station, people began tumbling out.
I enquired a conductor
who was sipping tea standing on the platform about buses to Tirpur . He waved his hand, vaguely , to indicate the general direction.
The good thing is that
one never needs to wait for more than 10
minutes anywhere for a line or Cut travelling towards the desired destination.
I soon found the “line” which was just leaving the bus station.
This was less crowded; crammed only with about 60 people. I was able to find standing-room only. But didn’t
regret – there was so much action happening around me. I even began enjoying the
chaos. The crowd packed the aisles, bodies shuddered with every honk of the strange “musical” horn and arrogant twist & turns that the
driver executed. A gaggle of women packed
up the front; some even sat on the metal bonnet covering the bus engine. Women in Colorful sari & oily, shiny plaited black hair adorned with fresh flowers were chattering
away.
Suddenly, the bus stopped.The
conductor screamed! Someone was
travelling ticketless . He threatened that the bus wouldn’t move unless the
miscreant stepped out & bought the ticket. I couldn’t believe what I heard
! How the hell was he able to count passengers in such a
crowded bus? 20 minutes elapsed, the restless
Passengers began to argue with the conductor. But he remained defiant
.People disembarked and were milling around the bus aimlessly. After what
seemed an eternity,a Police Jeep passing by
stopped to enquire. .The policeman tried to convince the
Conductor. He would not budge. Sensing the tension the officer paid the fare of a ticket and ordered
the bus driver “எடுயா வண்டிய”!** The journey continued.I have not seen anything like
this happen anywhere. Was it :arrogance?,pompousness
? Or sincerity ? .Without further hitch, the bus arrived at Tripur 
By now, I had gained some expertise in the art of “Bus Hopping” I got really lucky, vaulted onto the bus that was going towards Puliampatti. .This one was even less crowded. Only six people were standing on the aisle. I would be the seventh. Enquired about the duration of travel, the conductor informed me that being Festival season “Whistle stops” ” Wave down” stops & “unscheduled” stops could be expected. At the next whistle stop about 20 more passengers alighted. I immediately grabbed the window seat adjacent to the front entrance door .The bus grunted, groaned and began moving -.Surprisingly, there were no passengers standing ! But then, I never expected that I would unwittingly be playing a role in what can be termed as an outrageous ,Insane yet comical climax .
In the
middle of nowhere the bus was waved down by a handful of people. While a few
entered from the rear door , a lady balancing a large basket on her head, an infant barely a year old
clinging to the right side of her hip and a little girl holding a large Aluminum tiffin carrier in her left hand, clutching her mother’s sari with her left was trying to
board from the front side of the bus( usually
reserved for Women) At that moment, a man from behind pushed his way
forward and entered the bus. The Conductor (tamils
are known for their zany sense of Humour & Sarcasm) thundered “இந்தாயா நீ பொம்பளேயா,
ஆம்பளேயா?**Realizing his mistake, the embarrassed man
apologized தெரியலீங்க! ** Instantly, a cacophony of guffaws filled
the bus.( a word can convey different meanings you
see!) Even as
she was Staggering
up the foot board, the lady looked in my direction casually thrust the infant
on my thighs! and “Commanded” இத்த கொஞ்சம் வாங்குங்க”** My arms reflexively wrapped around the brat sitting on my
lap. I was livid and shaking with anger. But words failed to came
out of my mouth ( It was just opening
and closing like a stranded fish) Gradually
Consoling myself that“difficult times
& the bus journey won't last forever” I regained some composure and accepted my “Fate” In the meanwhile the elder kid was invited by a couple
sitting in the adjacent row to squeeze
in between them. The conductor lifted the heavy Basket from the lady’s head and
placed it on the wide dash board in front & exclaimed “என்மமா ஏகப்பட்ட ஜாமான் வாகிருக்காப்ல? **
All the while, the little brat on my lap looking smug turned around intermittently and gaped balefully
at my face. I could not help cursing It ( Didn’t know if it was a boy or Girl) . At the next whistle stop, the conductor unloaded the basket
,the lady “plucked “ the little one from my lap got down with the elder kid
and without so much as a backward glance
walked away.
These quirks are what intrigued me most about bus travel
in rural Tamil Nadu. Rather, it is the little
acts of spontaneous kindness amidst the bedlam that are so heart warming. Though
every passenger isn’t seemingly cordial, there is some sort of common traveller
empathy that is evident like an exhausted elderly man being offered a drink
from the water bottle by a young lady occupying a seat on the other side of the
aisle or, like me holding somebody’s baby in my lap! ( did I have a
Choice? It was ordained! ) . Neither requests are made nor deeds are proclaimed.
These delightful things rarely happen in urban environments because of various social / societal barriers & obstructions.
The commotion and tumultuousness unnerved me initially.Most rural areas I’ve visited earlier fell under the stereotype of peaceful and quiet villages (Dev Bhoomi Uttarakhand is an example) I wondered how people here enjoy the simplicity of rural living when there was so much noise. & commotion. But I now understand . This is the way of life here. And when I look right past the peculiarities, there’s that benevolence, empathy and affinity which separates places like these from big cities.
To cut a long story short, the bus reached Puliyampatti. As if on cue, the Non stop bus going from
Coimbatore to Mysore arrived . I boarded . I alighted from the Bus at Yele thota circle on JLB
Road junction., jumped into a waiting ‘auto’ and reached home at 7.30 pm.
And yes !
"सादगी से बड़ी कोई खूबसूरती नहीं है।"
** Used tamil words ,as only these can precisely convey
moods & blunt sarcasm
